How to Get Rid of Mold: Safe DIY Steps (and When to Stop)

DIY mold removal is reasonable for small, surface-level jobs. Check these four things first.

DIY mold removal checklist

Table: when DIY mold removal makes sense. Sources linked in each cell.

If you have health concerns, the EPA says to consult a health professional before starting cleanup.

You also don't need to test the mold first. The CDC says you do not need to know the type of mold, and the EPA says in most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary. Black, green or white, you remove it the same way. Our black mold guide explains why color doesn't change the method.

This is how to get rid of mold in a house when the area is small. It follows the EPA's homeowner guidance and the CDC's cleanup recommendations.

Step 1: Find and stop the water

Mold is a moisture problem first. The EPA says the key to mold control is moisture control and to fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Look for a dripping supply line, a failed shower seal, a roof leak, or condensation on a cold wall or AC duct.

If you skip this step, the mold returns. University of Georgia Extension warns that mold can come back within a few days if the moisture problem hasn't been fixed.

Step 2: Put on protective gear

For small cleanups, the EPA's minimum is gloves, an N-95 respirator, and goggles/eye protection. The details matter:

• Respirator: The CDC says to wear at least a NIOSH Approved N95 respirator. A paper dust mask is not the same thing.
• Gloves: The CDC recommends non-latex, vinyl, nitrile, or rubber gloves. The EPA recommends long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm.
• Goggles: The EPA recommends goggles that do not have ventilation holes. The CDC notes that safety glasses or goggles that have open vent holes will not protect you against dust and small particles.

Wear old clothes you can wash right after. Our mold removal protective gear guide covers what to buy.

Step 3: Keep spores from spreading

Turn off central air or heat while you work. University of Georgia Extension says to turn off any central air or heating systems in your home to reduce the spread of mold spores, and suggests covering doorways and vents with plastic and running a fan in an open window to blow air outside.

Don't point a fan across the moldy area. The EPA's disaster cleanup guide says do not use fans if mold has already started to grow, because the fans may spread the mold. Open windows instead; the CDC says to open windows or doors to let in fresh air when using any cleaning products.

Step 4: Remove moldy porous materials

Some things can't be cleaned. The EPA says absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. TDLR says the same about drywall, carpet, fleecy furnishings and insulation.

University of Georgia Extension says to seal moldy porous items in plastic bags before carrying them out, and that moldy carpet padding should always be discarded. For a small piece of drywall, cut a little beyond the visible stain so you can check the back side and the wall cavity.

Step 5: Scrub hard surfaces with detergent and water

For tile, glass, metal, sealed wood and similar surfaces, the EPA's instruction is simple: scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely. TDLR lists concrete, metal, glass, tile, and solid wood as non-porous surfaces where mold should be cleaned rather than removed.

Use a stiff brush on grout and textured surfaces. Wipe up the dirty water with disposable rags and bag them.

Step 6: If you use bleach, dilute it and never mix it

Bleach is optional. The CDC says bleach or dish detergent can be used to clean mold in your home, with no more than 1 cup of bleach in 1 gallon of water. Two firm rules:

• Never mix bleach with ammonia or other cleaners. The CDC says you should never mix bleach with ammonia or any other cleanser.
• Bleach won't fix porous materials. TDLR says applying bleach to drywall without removing the mold source, is not a permanent effective solution.

For the full comparison of cleaners, see vinegar vs bleach for mold, hydrogen peroxide for mold and mold removal sprays.

Step 7: Dry everything fast

Drying is what stops regrowth. The EPA says to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth. Once the mold is gone, fans and a dehumidifier help. University of Georgia Extension suggests drying everything within 48 hours and using dehumidifiers and fans to bring humidity to 30-50%. Our dehumidifier for mold guide covers sizing.

Then fix the surface. The EPA says do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces; clean and dry first, or the paint will peel and the mold will grow back underneath.

Step 8: Check back in a few days

Look and sniff again over the next week. If you still see or smell mold, the EPA says you have more work to do. Regrowth in the same spot means water is still getting in.

Belongings are a judgment call. NC State Extension says mold can be removed from most items if you clean and dry the item quickly, but some things are rarely worth saving.

How to remove mold from household items

Table: salvage guidance from NC State Extension (April 2022).

For anything expensive or sentimental, the EPA suggests consulting a specialist, such as a restoration or water-damage professional.

• Cleaning without fixing the leak. The mold returns.
• Killing mold instead of removing it. The EPA says dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it has to be physically removed.
• Running the HVAC. If you suspect the system is contaminated, the EPA says do not run the HVAC system. See mold in AC vents.
• Dry brushing or sanding moldy material indoors. This puts spores into the air. Vacuum with a HEPA vacuum instead; see HEPA vacuums for mold.
• Mixing cleaners. Bleach plus ammonia makes a toxic gas; the EPA says mixing them can create toxic vapors.
• Using an ozone generator. The EPA says ozone at levels within public health standards does not effectively remove viruses, bacteria, mold, or other biological pollutants, and that ozone can be harmful to health. See air purifiers for mold for what helps.

Stop DIY if any of these happen:

• The area is bigger than you thought. Once you cut into drywall, mold often turns out to be larger on the back side. The EPA says mold may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall. If it passes 10 square feet, the EPA points to professional cleanup.
• You reach 25 contiguous square feet in Texas. TDLR says in most instances, areas of visible mold less than 25 contiguous square feet may be cleaned by people who are not licensed. Owners of buildings with fewer than 10 dwelling units are exempt on their own residential property, but larger jobs are where licensed companies earn their fee.
• It keeps coming back. UGA Extension says that if mold persists, you may want to contact a professional water damage or mold restoration firm.
• The water was dirty. After a flood or sewage backup, the EPA says to call in a professional. See mold after a flood in Texas.
• Someone in the house gets sick. A doctor, not a mold test, decides whether mold is behind symptoms. TDLR recommends that people consult a health care provider if they are concerned about mold and their health.

How professional mold removal works in Texas

In Texas, a licensed job uses two separate companies. A mold testing company inspects and writes the plan, and a separate mold removal company does the cleanup. State law says a license holder may not perform both mold assessment and mold remediation on the same project.

Check any license with our license check tool before you sign. Our guides to what mold remediation is, the mold remediation process and mold remediation cost explain what to expect. You can find licensed companies in Dallas, Fort Worth, Corpus Christi and across Texas.